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The true treasures of Mexico are found in the colonial cities of old Mexico. The state of Guanajuato offers a wealth of interesting travel experiences, and lacks the frenzied tourist crowds of the beach resorts. Mining became the fevered pastime of the greedy Spaniards and in their fervor to extricate as much richness as possible from the soil, their actions resulted in the development of mining camps, which became towns, and eventually grew into cities. As this mineral economy turned the wheels of development, these villages grew into centers of trade for the many haciendas that were prospering in the surrounding areas, and the wealthy began to build opulent mansions, churches, and civic buildings. The Catholic missions turned into towering cathedrals, masterpieces of architecture. And so, the colonial cities of the highlands were born.
During the early mining days a route was established to carry the precious metals from Guanajuato City to Mexico City. Mule trains led by the Spanish often encountered difficulties between the Chichimeca Indians and the muleteers, so a mission was established in the center of this territory. In the year 1542 a Fransican friar named Juan de San Miguel was commissioned for the job, and the village of San Miguel was officially established. Following the War of Independence, in the year 1826, the name was changed in honor of a local hero who had played a vital part in the struggle for freedom from Spanish rule. Native Ignacio Allende had died during the fighting, and in his memory, the name was changed to San Miguel de Allende.
As you stroll along these narrow cobblestone streets it is easy to imagine life in past centuries. The opulent mansions have been preserved, and many are now intimate hotels, gourmet restaurants, thriving shops and homes. Walking up the often steep and often irregular streets, you can glance into the past through doorways into lush gardens with stone fountains, thick stone walls with antique carved doors and intricate painted tilework. Talaveras pottery was born in this region, and it is evident not only in the many shops, but also in use in homes and businesses throughout the city.
The centerpeice of architecture is the massive pseudo gothic Parroquia De San Miguel Arcangel, built in 1683 and located in the center of town overlooking the main square. It received a makeover in 1888 by an Indian artisan, Zeferino Gutierrez, whose ideas were inspired by a postcard of a French cathedral. It is said that he drew images in the dirt in front of the church to illustrate to his workers what he envisioned. The ornate and somewhat garish spires are inspiring of both criticism and awe. The bells were cast from donated gold jewelry from several wealthy families, and their morning ringing is richly melodious. Underneath the main altar of the church are the tombs containing the remains of former bishops, and a few dignitaries. They are open to the public only on November 2, la Dia de la Muertos- The Day of the Dead.
There are numerous churches throughout the city; most notably the Church of San Francisco, built between 1779 - 1799. This is a perfect example of the elaborate and extravagant Churrigueresque design, as is the Casa Del Mayorazgo de Canal. This wonderful old mansion is open for touring, as is the birthplace of Ignacio Allende, now housing a historical museum. The best way to see the interiors of many of these stately and ancient homes is a weekly tour available through the Public Library. Each Sunday the occupants of many of the ancient buildings allow a public tour of the interiors and gardens of their homes. Considering that some of these buildings are nearly 500 years old, it's fascinating to imagine the many different lives that have been housed within those walls, and how they have adapted to growing modernization. This city has been declared a national monument, and as such, all building changes are strictly controlled.
San Miguel de Allende has been said to have the highest ratio of art galleries per capita of any city in Mexico. The Instituto Art and Language School hosts world-class artists and scholars. The building is beautiful and at one time belonged to the Canal family. Old frescoes are still visible on the walls, as is an image of the Magonna of Loreto, patroness of the Canal family. The institute offers classes in sculpture, silverwork, jewelry, enamaling, traditional Mexican weaving, textile design, printmaking, painting and drawing, and ceramics. It is a campus abroad for the Rhode Island School of Design, School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, and Canada's Ontario College of Art.
If you have the opportunity to travel Mexico, I highly recommend visiting this region. The state of Guanajuato and its colonial cities is refreshingly pleasant, interesting, educational and delightful. Transportation from Guadalajara or Mexico City is available via bus or train. Contact your favorite travel agent, grab your Spanish language guide, and go discover the true soul of Mexico!
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